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Motor marked with "WP" (waterproof)
4 screws M3x6mm
4 screws cylindric head
4 non-metric? screw for motor mount
4 screw nuts
motor cross
3D-printed motor mount
Loctite for all screws!
Screw motor cross to motor (M3x6mm, PH1, metric with countersunk head)
screw propeller axis to motor
Press nuts in motor mount (heat nuts and use tool)
screw motor cross to motor mount (M3x10mm, PZ1, not metric?)
To connect different components, special cables have to be produced.
Building: 30 minutes
soldering iron
heat shrink tube
for DHT:
3x Cable ca. 65mm (red, yellow, black)
1x Cable ca. 30mm
1x 4.7 kOhm (yellow)
JST Pinout
This cable connects the power from the power module to the CM4. Use the JST GHT and the fitting, crimped cables and put it together. There is a +5V supply on pin 1&2 and ground on pin 3&4. We combine each of the two pins to get enough power for the CM4.
This cable also connects the DHT22 sensor (humidity and temperature) to one pi.
To meassure the air temperature and humidity on the inside of the Box, a DHT22 sensor needs to be attached to one of the Pi's.
First solder (red) vcc cable and the resistor to the DHT as shown
2. Solder the 20mm cable to the data Pin and shrink the first DHT pin.
3. Solder the open end of the resistor, the open end of the 20mm cable and the long data cable (yellow) together.
4. Attach the (black) GND cable to the last Pin, and cover your bad soldering points with shrinking tube.
Solder two precrimped JST-GH cables (~20cm long) to the power switch as follows
Insert the cable ends into the JST connector. Insert at pin 1 and pin 4 of the JST connector.
Isolate the cables at the switch side
Using hot glue
!! Special caution needed on the lenght of the isolation at the switch side !!
The next step is to build the cable for the telemetry connection between Pixracer and the CM4. Therefore the JST GHT is needed. Moreover you need a wire, because each Pi needs to be connected to the PixRacer. There need to be 3 wires in the JST GHT.
The cable connects receiver in the plane (FrSky R-XSR) to 2 ports ob the PixRacer: RCIN and FRS.
You need:
From FrSky-Receiver:
Plug with 5 cables
Remove the white one
From PixRacer:
JST-5 connections (fitting the RCIN connection)
JST-4 connections (fitting the FRS connection)
Cable must be drilled!
connect to PixRacer
connect to receiver
check connection
check telemetry
Long Press on "PAGE"
See the telemetry from the PixRacer
from https://www.hs-augsburg.de/homes/beckmanf/dokuwiki/doku.php?id=searchwing-rfd868-mount
The modem is connected to the PixRacer Telem2 port and the power module. The modem is mounted in the right fuselage half and will be connected just shortly before glueing the two fuselage parts to the PixRacer and the Powermodule.
Use three 12inch precrimped JST-GH cables
Remove the JST-GH crimp at one side
Remove 3-4mm of isolation to crimp a Harwin M20 crimp
Crimp a Harwin M20 connector
Use a Harwin 8 pin connector and put the crimps in the connector according to the following image
Compare the connector to the RFD868+ connections at the modem.
Remove Pin 15 of the RFD868+ modem. This will be the safety pin to avoid wrong mounting of the connector.
Solder the pin in a Harwin M20 connector and insert that connector in the Harwin housing. Fill the other four open places with empty Harwin M20 connector to increase the holding force of the connector.
Mark the RX and TX and GND cables and then weave the cables such that they are closer together. Now take a JST-GH 6-Pin connector and insert the pins according to this image
Pixracer pin layout: https://docs.px4.io/v1.9.0/assets/flight_controller/pixracer/grau_setup_pixracer_top.jpg
Please note the different directions of the connector/cables in the labeling.
Pin layout of the Pixracer:
Pin layout to the RFD868+:
Note the difference between the yellow cable named TX on the board and RX on the connector!!! The name RX for the yellow cable on the JST-GH cable connector refers to the RX on the RFD868 modem. Please remember to connect the RFD868+ TX to the PixRacer RX and vice versa. So according to the following table:
The electrical connections of the cable are shown here:
The final weaved cable looks like this:
You can remove the cable markings.
4x 8" JST already crimped cable
JST 4-pin to female connector 8-pin
GND + GND, 5V + 5V (double cable)
To mark the cable use colored shrink tube.
The motor itself is waterproof in general. The only weak points are the bearings - the original bearings are vulnerable to water, especially salt water.
Building: 10 minutes
cotter pin drive
hammer
small screwdriver
1x Extron Motor
2x bearing small
1x bearing big
1x replacement circlip for 5mm motor shaft
First of all the circlip shown in the picture below needs to be removed. Therefore a small screwdriver could be helpful.
After removing the circlip the motor can easily pulled apart. For the next steps you only need to modify the part of the motor, shown in the right side of the next picture.
There are two little spacer made out of brass on the big bearing on the right side of the picture. You will need the spacer, so don't lose them.
The motor has two small and one bigger bearing which needs to be replaced. You should start with removing the two small bearings first. Therefor place the motor in the mounting aid. You can use your cotter pin driver and position it as shown in the following picture. Use a hammer to cast out the bearing.
After dismounting the two small bearings turn the motor and the mounting aid around and place it like shown in the next picture. Remove the big bearing by the same method used for the smaller ones.
You are now able to integrate the new bearings. Start with the two small bearings and use the mounting aid, so that the bearings and the motor stays in the right position won't get damaged by the hammer. After putting in the two small bearings flip the motor around and install the big bearing with the bigger mounting aid.
After installing the new bearings you are now able to reassemble the motor. Don't forget to place the two little spacer made out of brass on the shaft before adding the circlip. The two motor parts move quite fast due to the magnets - make sure you do not have parts of your skin between the two parts...
PixRacer JST-GH board | RFD868+ IDC connector |
---|---|
3D-printed mounting aid (export the STL data from the )
Circlip Plier for circlip on motor shaft ()
GND
GND
RX
TX
TX
RX
Preparation & Work: 1-2 hours
Cure time: approx. 24 hours
Clamps to fix the parts
silicon gloves
mixing rod
mixing container
brush
plastik wrap
Box parts from "Printing the box"
SuperGlue
2-Component Epoxy - https://shop1.r-g.de/art/100100
Glue the box parts together (15 min)
Glue the holders to the box (15 min)
coat the box, cover and GPS tower with epoxy
let it cure for 24h / temper if possible
Glue the 2 parts of the box together
Use the additional positioning help part to put the 2 holders in the right position
Make sure to use the right smaller part - there is one for the left and one for the right side
Prepare all parts to be coated:
Box with attached holders
cover
GPS Tower
Prepare your tools
Brush
Gloves
Container for mixing the epoxy
Prepare your workplace
use a board to place the coated parts - cover it with plastic wrap
Make sure to mix the right ratio of the epoxy. Best to use weight-ratio with a exact mg scale.
Use 12g of mix for all parts. 6g Harz, 6g Härter.
After mixing the epoxy, spread it out in a larger container! Epoxy gets hot while curing, the hotter it gets, the faster it cures. Normal c
Apply the coat with a brush
hold the box on the holders while applying
apply on all parts - the thinner the better!
dont let the epoxy fill up the holes or the grove for the cover
let the exopy cure for 24h
if possible, you can "temper" the parts while curing, increasing the temperature during the curing increases strength of epoxy ande decreases curing time - see below
Curing can e.g. be done in the heated box of your 3D printer. Set the heating plate to a low temperature e.g. 50 degree and put the parts in the print chamber.
Preparation: 30 Minutes
Print Time: approx. 15 hours
3D-Printer (Prusa recommended)
ASA Filament
SuperGlue
2-Component Epoxy
We choose ASA (DuraPro ASA) as our printing material of choice:
Light (approx. 30% lighter than PETG)
Stable - good layer adhesion (compared to ABS)
The complete config bundle for the PrusaSlicer, most current STL Files ande more can be downloaded here:
The brim is important, when printing with ASA. ASA tends to warp and contract - this holds the print better to the plate.
Density is set to 100% - the box is designed, to print in 4+ perimeters, this makes sure, all the cavities are filled.
LiPo battery
Titanex power cable 2.5 mm²
shrinking tube
Weipu connector
balancer board
PlastiDip
label printer
When working on the batterey terminals take care to not short circuit the battery. Always tape the loose end if you work on another end
Prior to assembly make sure the battery works and has proper voltage levels.
Use a label printer and add a label with the minimum and maximum battery voltage to the battery.
Add a unique identifying label to the battery. Suggestion: "<dronename>-01".
...
...
Make sure the Weipu connector is wired correctly.
Pin 1 should be XXX.
Pin 2 should be XXX.
To connect the servos for ruders to the box, containing all the electronics, we use M8 connectors. These offer a small footprint and the required watertightness
V-Tail to PixRacer internal M8 cable length: 24 cm
Wing to PixRacer internal M8 cable length: 14 cm
Cable code: blue signal, brown 5V, black GND
Cut M8 pre-made cable to 7 cm for V-tail
Cut the servo cable to 16 cm for the V-tail
Aileron
Cut the M8 Cable to 37 cm
remove about 15 mm outer isolation and 3 mm inner isolation
Route it through the designated cable hole in the fuselage, and attach it to a counterpart which is mounted in a box.
Insert the servo motor into the wing and hold the wing to the fuselage
if you are brave, cut the servo cable at the beginning of the uninsulated copper of the other cable
solder them together and apply shrinking tube
Final Product
2x F1
2x F2
4x F3
Complete cable assebly set: 170 min
Preparation: 30 min
Building F1: 60 min
Building F2: 40 min
Building F3: 40 min
4x
4x
Schrumpfschlauch und Kabel ablängen
Building: 30 minutes
UHU Por glue
spatula
cutter/knife
carbon rods
both fuselage parts
3D printed motor mount
The glue has to dry for 10 minutes before fitting the parts together. So apply UHU por glue to the carbon rods and the fuselage part where the rods are inserted. Wait 10 minutes. Only then press the rods into the slots in the fuselage.
Do the same for the V-tail rods.
When all the rods are glued, install the servos and test fitting the servo connectors through the fuselage. Do not use the servo hinges included (to be glued) but take our custom ones to screw.
Apply UHU Por glue to the first half of the fuselage:
Apply glue to half of the motor mount:
Wait for 10 minutes and press motor mount firmly against the fuselage.
First, cut of the rear "hook" symetrically (as a 'pyramide').
Use the box to mark the area of the bottom of the fuselage below the wings that has to be cut out. It's a width of about 35mm (to both side of the center, inside and outside of the bottom of the fuselage) with a length of about 70mm from the front edge of the narrow part of the bottom of the fuselage (outside). The camera bulge of the box is narrower (2.5cm inside the fuselage bottom) but they need some opening angle (about 60 deg) to both sides to take proper pictures, so the opening widens from 2.5cm inside to 3.5cm outside. It might be advantageous to cover the entire contact area of box and fuselage with glue when glueing together in a later step.
Building the GPS Tower
GPS tower/top cover of box
M9N GPS module
6-PIN JST cable
4 x screws (2.2 mm x 6.5 mm)
"styropor" block
copper tape
plastic foil
electrical tape
cross-head screw driver
scissor
Screw in the GPS m9n Module. Direction doesn't matter. Case is symmetrical.
Fit GPS cable through the hole in the cover and plug it in the designated port on the pixracer.
Prepare a styropor cube of the size: 50x40x30mm and cover the bottom side with Alu or Copper foil.
To prevent short circuits wrap it with some plastic foil.
Here are some leftovers from the vacuum packages from the battery bag used.
Put the cube in the GPS tower.
Before glueing of the Tower check if the GPS gets an appropriate amount of Sattelite locks (>15 is good).
Check if the external compass works.