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Add battery to the powermodule connector
Test: Power switch
Press the switch to turn on the plane internals
The Lights of the GPS module should light up
Pixracer: Does it work
Connect USB Cable
Start QGC and check if the Pixracer connects
Is SD Card inserted?
is logging functional?‌ AHRS
Telemetry test: RFD Connection to QGC
QGroundcontrol doesn't have permission to serial port, even when user is part of 'dialout' group? Remove package brltty with: 'sudo apt remove brltty'.
Connect the RFD868+ via USB connector to your PC or the SearchWing-Tablet
Start QGC and check if it connects to the Pixracer
Disconnect RFD868+ modem if sucessful
5. Telemetry test: ESP-Telemetry Connection to QGC
Connect via PC or SearchWing-Tablet to the drone accesspoint "dronenameRacer" - Password "cassandra"
Start QGC and check if it connects to the Pixracer
6. Motor / RC-control
7. GPS: Receive > 10 Sats
Put box outside at clear open sky (no building should obstruct the view)
Start QGC
At least 10 sats should be visible
8. External compass:
Calibrate external compass
Check if compass calibration is healthy (green)
9. IMU: Receive messages
Start QGC
Do dummy calibration to check if IMU messages can be received
10. Payload test
Test Camera: PI Can do camera images
Check: Camera test
Check image quality (no blur, no plastic particles)
Test Payload RX Telemetry / PI Receive Mavlink
Check: Check receive mavlink test
Test Payload TX Telemetry / PI Send Mavlink
Check: Check transmit mavlink test - OR -
Check: Check if preflight check msgs in QGC are received
Open QGC
Wait 1 minute
Click "Trumpet" symbol at the top of QGC
Check if preflight check messages are received
Test: DHT22
Check: Check DHT22 test
Warning: This documentation is outdated. We plan to use a PlastiDip sealed battery pack
Building: 30 minutes
solder iron
screwdriver
knife to cut the rubber seal
shrink tube
aloksak sealable bag
Curil K2
3D-Printed cable passage (Printing and preparing the box)
Rubber seal
XT-90 Battery connector (female)
Make sure your working area is clear of sharp parts! These can easily harm the bag!
Use shrink tube to attach the cables to the outer part
Cut the rubber according to picture
Put a cutting board inside the bag
mark the size of the inner part
cut a hole into the bag
put Curil on the outer part & one side of the rubber - let it dry for 5 minutes
Turn the bag inside out
screw the parts together
solder the XT90
The whole in the rubber should be cut large enough, so the screws don't go through it. this makes assembly much easier
Put air in the bag
seal it according to the instructions on the bag
hold it under water
No air or bubbles shoud be visible
Building: 30 minutes
Soldering iron
Heatgun
Powermodule
Powercable (3mm diameter)
Shrink tubing
ESC Pigtails for motor connection
ESC
charging port/connector
Presolder the following soldering pads for the upcoming steps
Cut a 9cm piece of power cable (red and black) - long enough that the battery connctor outside can be connected
Remove 5mm of isolation on both sides
Presolder the wires
The whole cable should be covered with solder
Solder the Cables to the corresponding spots on the power module
Check your solderings by pulling at them
The Weipu connector can only be connected when the power module is inside the box and the cables are routed through the Weipu connector-hole.
Directly solder the ESC power cables to the designated spots on the power module.
Remove 5mm of isolation on the end of the cable
Presolder the wires
Prepare the connector like this (15cm of cables and shrinking tube)
Add the prepared power plug to the power module like seen in the image below (without the irritating excess shrinking tube)
Solder the cables at the back of the power module
Add some more solder to the soldering spot to get them soldered perfectly to the board
Check you solderings by pulling and rotating them
No part of the cable should get free
Now your power module should look like this... (shorter cables at the front, shorter connections to the ESC)
Cut 3x 25cm pieces of power cable (red + 2x black) - long enough, that the motor and its pigtals could be later replaced without taking the fuselage apart
Elongate the three phases of the ESC with these 25 cm long cables.
The pigtails have to be applied after the cables are routed through the "Kabeldurchführung"
prepared Raspberry Pi compute module 4
carrierboard for compute module 4
2 x camera cable
2 x Rasberry Pi camera
prepared power cable
prepared telemetry cable
prepared DHT22 sensor/cable
prepared power module incl. ESC and charging port
prepared PixRacer
prepared RFD868+ telemetry
prepared RC receiver
isolated shielding tape
double-sided tape
8 x short screws (1.7 mm x 4 mm) for cameras
2 + 4 + 3 + 4 x long screws (2.2 mm x 6.5 mm)
Weipu battery connector
4 x prepared M8 connectors
Kabeldurchführung with Mehrfachdichteinsatz
solder wire
shrinking tube
hot glue gun
cross-head screw driver
soldering iron
heat gun
If M-Plugs are not mounted in the box, do so.
Connect DHT22 to CM4 before screwing it in (easier):
Red/Purple - VCC (3.3V or 5V) --> Pin 4 or Pin 1 (e.g. 1st pin in inner row)
Yellow/Blue - Signal -->Pin 16 (8th pin in outer row)
Black/Green - GND --> Pin 20 or 9 (e.g. 5th pin in inner row)
Shield both camera cables with isolated shielding tape. Glue the cables to the CM4 and the cameras. Make sure the heat sink is attached to the CPU.
Attach Power and Telemetry cables to the CM4.
If Test components before box assembly is done, glue all GPIO connectors with a hot glue gun to the Raspberry PI. Glue the shielded camera cables to the camera connectors as well as the Raspberry PI. Glue the SD cad of the Pixracer in-place.
4. Screw the module to bottom with USB ports to tail/empennage.
5. Screw cameras with short(!) screws to mounts: Camera0 to right, Camera1 to left (both connectors pointing to front).
6. Glue DHT22 with double-sided tape below power connector.
7. Make sure the charging connector is soldered to the Power-Module.
8. Put the battery power cable through the power connector hole and solder the Weipu connector to the cables. When Vinc is soldering, remind him to put both shrinking tube AND nut when connecting the power cable.
9. Tighten the nut on the power connector.
10. Make sure all cables (JST-Connectors) are attached to the Power-Module.
11. Screw the Power-Module with two screws (2.2 mm x 6.5 mm) into the Box. (there are two additional screw holes for an additional version of the Power-Module.)
12. Put the Nut from the ESC-Durchführung over the cables and insert it into the designated position on the inside of the box.
13. On the outside, pull the Kabeldurchführung over the cables before applying the Mehrfachdurchführung. Make sure the O-Ring is in place. Screw the Kabeldurchführung into its nut.
14. Attach all cables to the Pixracer. (Power on the designated Pixracer port of the Power Module, GPS cable, UART - Telemetry 2 - connection to the Raspberry PI, Telemetry 1 for the RFD 868 Telemetry)
13. Screw the Pixracer in place.
14. Glue the RC Transmitter with double-sided tape to the opposite wall of the Power-Module.
15. Put the Switch through the smaller hole and attach from the outer side the watertight O-Ring sealed Noppen.
16. Insert the Charing port like shown in following picture:
17. Screw the GPS module in the tower. Make sure it is connected to its shielding and to the Pixracer.
18. Connect the RFD 868 Telemetry to the Pixracer (Telemetry 1 port) as well as the Power-Module (power connector at the back of the Power Module)
19. If every component is in place, solder the Pigtails to the ESC cables.
Remove 4 mm of insulation
apply solder to the litzen
heat the pigtail up until solder liquifies
insert the pre-soldered wire
add additional solder until the cup is full
let it cool
apply a long shrinking tube that the outside of the pigtail is fully covered with shrinking tube
Building: 30 minutes
UHU Por glue
spatula
silicone
(1.2mm drill)
Servos with assembled servo arm
servo push rods
(optional: flexible tube)
You can choose between two methods to mount the servo rods to the servo horns. If you don't want to drill a hole in the rudder horn, you can also use a flexible tube with and circumference of 2mm.
For the long two Pushrods cut off 150mm long wires, and 15mm long tube pieces and put the tube on one end like this:
Now bend the wires with the tube:
Now the other side like this:
Repeat the process with two 75mm long wires.
Put glue on the carbon rod and the corresponding place in the vtail. Wait 10 minutes and push the rod into the corresponding place.
Put the carbon wing pipe into the glue and remove it again so that the glue gets to the contact dry. Wait about 10 minutes.
When putting back the carbon parts apply high force to get a better stabillity.
Put glue on the lower part of the ruder horn. Put glue on the wing part.
Insert the ruder horn into the wing and apply pressure:
Ruder horn after proper assembly:
Now cut free the rudder of the V-Tail:
Repeat the process with the Wings.
Make sure the servo is centered before installing the servo into the wing. Make sure the servo arm is installed with a O-Ring inbetween the servo arm and the servo housing.
Before continuing with glueing the servos and cable into the wing make sure the carbon tubes are inserted into the wings.
There is a right and wrong way:
The short wire part after the angled part at the rudder horn is on the plane inside.
The cables on the wings/V-tails shoult look like this:
This part is outdated. Please refer to the "Add components to the box" section of this manual.
Building: 1 hour
Curing: 2 days
Loctice 243
9mm wrench
all elecrtonic parts
3d printed box
cover for box
screws 1.7mm x 4mm for camera
... 2.2mm x 6.5 for everything else
silicon
pen
Give special instrucktion...
Brown (GND) "up" (away from cover)
Aileron left & right are "identical" - doesnt matter, which is connected to 1 / 5
Connection 6 is left empty